Eastbound and Down

What to do now that Christmas is over and the budget is tight? You want to get out of the house but you’re not sure where to go? There’s no better time to plan your coastal road trips than January! Lodging customers (and rates!) are down, there are no crowds to fight, and it’s probably warmer than where you are now! US 17 in North Carolina’s inner coast is 250 miles of history waiting to be explored! There are plenty of side trips to be made, sights to see, and culture to soak up along the way, so let’s hit up the land of peanuts, cotton, live oaks, and cypress!

Wilmington was the last important port city of the Confederacy, surviving until the last few months of the war. It has modernized considerably in the last fifteen years, with a bustling downtown riverfront. There are way too many places to shop, eat, and stay to list here, but I must recommend the Front Street Brewery for libations, and a run through the Cotton Exchange (shopcottonexchange.com) will sate your shopping urges. Across the river is the USS North Carolina (BB 55), a historical museum of World War II US naval might, open year round. There are also numerous mansions, museums, and parks to visit, or at least put on the “to see” list for summer if you can’t fit them all in on this trip. Heading north out of town is Poplar Grove Plantation, one of many plantations on this ride open to the public for a view of life in the 1800’s.

Our next stop is Jacksonville, home of the US Marine Corps’ Atlantic headquarters. Here you’ll find the cheapest gas on the route, so fill up while it’s good. It is worth a short side trip to the Beirut Memorial (beirut-memorial.org) on LeJeune Blvd. (follow the signs), which, along with the trees planted in the median, are a tribute to the 241 servicemembers killed on October 23, 1983 in Lebanon. It was America’s first taste of suicide bombing, and a lesson we’re still learning today.

Less than an hour up the road is the picturesque little town of New Bern. This is North Carolina’s second oldest city, founded by Swiss in 1710, and served briefly as both the colonial and state capitols. (Ladies, you may recognize this town as the setting of the book and movie The Notebook.) On the corner of Pollock and Middle Streets, you’ll find the corner shop where Pepsi was born – worth a stop no matter what! This town is a great place to load up on home décor, and not a bad choice if you’re looking for somewhere to stay overnight. There are many B&B’s on Pollack St. as well as a few chain motels on the water. If you do choose to spend the night, try the Southern cuisine at the Morgan St. Tavern and Grille, and check out the live music at Mesh on Trent St. If you’re just stopping for a Pepsi and a bite to eat, MJ’s Raw Bar is just a few doors down Middle St. (get the shrimp po-boy!).

Another forty-five minutes or so will bring you to Washington, but make sure you take the business route, or you will zoom by it at seventy miles per hour! If you choose to stop at Buddy’s Family Restaurant south of town, opt for the seafood over the barbeque, but be forewarned that it’s heavily breaded (props on the hushpuppies and tea, though!). Washington is a great getaway for two, an intimate little village where the Pamlico River meets the Sound, with good walking tours of the waterfront and main drag, both leading to the history center on the eastern edge of town.

Williamston is 20 miles or so northward, and is the place to stop for eastern NC barbecue! There are large signs for Shaw’s Barbeque – follow them. Eat there. Amen. This is also the next best stop for cheap gas – stop at the Hess Station on the east side of the road.

Edenton is the real gem of this trip – if you’re choosing just one destination and you’re not bringing kids, make it here. The old houses and great walkability of this town make it day-trip worthy. If you actually put yourself up to the challenge of reading every historical marker in this town, you’ll have to spend the night – the Granville Queen Inn is a converted old house, and would suit nicely. Shopping and dining abound, so make sure to plan accordingly!

The last stop on the trip is Elizabeth City, unless you’ve got time for another short side trip to Hertford – well worth the time for antique shops and small town charm! “EC” (as Elizabeth City is known to locals) has a downtown with appeal, with some small shops and eateries. For the short stay, check out the list of beers and wines (and the NC ham sandwich!) at the City Wine Sellar near the waterfront, and for the long stay, head to the EC B&B or the Culpepper Inn, both cozy Victorians to hold you for the night.

Though this was written from the south to the north, you can have a good time no matter the route you take. I recommend the self-titled album from The Devil Makes Three for a soundtrack to pass the miles, even if they are from Vermont – they fit in great here. The little towns in between offer a look at life “down east”, and the larger towns listed here are great places for antiquing, dining, and getting out of your own town for a while. You’ll hear more about some of these places in future issues, but until then, drive safely and we’ll see you at the next stop!